LIPIDURE® -Advanced materials: LIPIDURE®-  
NOF CORPORATION Oleo & Speciality Chemicals Div.
LIPIDURE® (MPC)
Application to cosmetics
Safety
Products
LIPIDURE®-HM, PMB®
LIPIDURE®-NR, NA
Quasi Drugs Authorization
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Products


LIPIDURE®-NR, NA


NOF Corporation started the sales of "LIPIDURE®-NR" and "LIPIDURE®-NA", which have new functions and concepts. The main ingredients of these new products are phosphatide polymers (LIPIDURE®-S (Fig.1)). LIPIDURE®-NR is a solution of polymers in multivalent alcohol. LIPIDURE®-NA is dispersion of nano-particles of polymer (Ave. particle size: 50nm) in water.


Figure 1.
Figure 1.


"LIPIDURE®-NR" and "LIPIDURE®-NA" have unique characteristics. They form nano scale lamella structures on an applied surface when they dry.


Figure 2.
Figure 2.


Transmission Electron Microscopic observation of a casting film of LIPIDURE®-NA shows formation of a lamella structure.


Figure 3.
Figure 3.


The new products are effective cosmetic ingredients for skin care and hair care. They restore and protect the skin and hair healthy.


1.LIPIDURE®-NR


(Product)


5% LIPIDURE®-S solution in multivalent alcohol, which is a mixture of Glycerin and 1,3-Butylene Glycol.
INCI names: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, and Polyquaternium-61


(Characteristics)


LIPIDURE®-NR
Encloses and reserves active components stably,
Forms lamella structure on the skin surface and protects the skin, and
Increases the penetration efficiency of active components.


(Demonstration of Reserving effect)


LIPIDURE®-NR can enclose oily active components such as Vitamins. The enclosed ingredients were confirmed to remain on the hair surface. Here, the model material used as an active component was florescent oil. Fluorescence was incorporated in LIPIDURE®-NR. Observations under a fluorescent microscope of damaged hair that was immersed into the LIPIDURE®-NR showed fluorescence.


(1) Inclusion of the fluorescent probe (active components) into LIPIDURE®-NR LIPIDURE®-NR dissolves into water by mixing for 30 min at 50 to 60?C. While stirring water of 50 to 60?C, just add LIPIDURE®-NR to which fluorescence is included. With this simple method, nano particles are formed. There is no need to use ultra high-presser homogenizer (ex. microfluidizer).

Figure 4.
Figure 4.


(2) Microscopic photographs of 1) non-treated damaged hair, 2) fluorescence dissolving in water from surfactant-treated hair, and 3) inclusion of fluorescence in LIPIDURE®-NR treated hair.

Figure 5
Figure 5 Figure 5.


Only LIPIDURE®-NR treated hair showed strong fluorescence. This shows that LIPIDURE®-NR with active components remained on the hair even after the hair was rinsed with water. This is likely because the active component in LIPIDURE®-NR was included in the newly formed lamella structure on the hair.

2.LIPIDURE®-NA


(Product)


1% LIPIDURE®-S water dispersion. LIPIDURE®-S is added to 9.5% Glycerin, 9.5% 1,3-Butylene Glycol and 0.25% PCA Ethyl Cocoylarginate, which is a preservative.
INCI names: Water/Glycerin/Butylene Glycol/Polyquaternium-61/PCA Ethyl Cocoylarginate


(Characteristics)


LIPIDURE®-NA Repairs damaged hair by forming lamella structure on the hair,
Makes the hair antistatic, and
Protects the hair from discoloring.


(Demonstration of the repair efficacy of damaged hair)


We observed the wetting effect under a high power microscope. A drop of water on the surface of a healthy hair fiber, damaged hair by bleaching, and damaged hair that was treated with hair care ingredient solutions (active conc. 0.05%)


Figure 6.
Figure 6.


Damaged hair showed decreases in contact angle with water from that of healthy hair. Because the lipid phase at the outermost surface on the hair fiber was damaged, the hair surface became hydrophilic. On the other hand, LIPIDURE®-NA treated hair showed high repellency similar to that of healthy hair. LIPIDURE®-NA restored the hair fiber to be hydrophobic again by forming a lamella structure on the hair. The damaged hair was restored into healthy hair.


3.Safety


Safety of LIPIDURE®-NR and LIPIDURE®-NA


Item Result
LIPIDURE®-NR LIPIDURE®-NA
Acute oral toxicity test >2000mg/kg >2000mg/kg
Skin primary irritation test Non-irritation Non-irritation
Human patch test negative negative
Table 1.

Item Result
Acute oral toxicity test >2000mg/kg
Mutagenicity test negative
Skin primary irritation test Non-irritation
Continuous skin irritation test Non-irritation
Ocular irritation testing Very slight
Skin sensitization testing Non-sensitization
Human patch test negative
Table 2.


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